The best place to stay in North Sound is on the water. Take a yacht into the sound, pick up a mooring at Bitter End or Leverick Bay, and use the boat as your hotel. Dinghy to Saba Rock for dinner, snorkel the reefs in the morning, then make the short run to The Baths. If you would rather sleep ashore, North Sound has resort stays at Leverick Bay, a boutique stay at Saba Rock, and luxury at Oil Nut Bay. This guide covers all of it, with the rules that matter and what a charter costs.
TL;DR
- North Sound is a large, reef-sheltered bay on the eastern tip of Virgin Gorda. Most people arrive by boat, which makes a yacht the most natural base.
- Moorings at Bitter End Yacht Club and Leverick Bay are the responsible way to stay. Anchoring on coral is illegal in the BVI and can be fined.
- Shore options: Leverick Bay Resort & Marina (family-friendly), Saba Rock (boutique), Oil Nut Bay (luxury), plus villas.
- Do: watersports at Bitter End, tarpon feeding at Saba Rock, a glass-bottom boat tour, and The Baths at first light, checking the flag first.
- Bareboat power catamarans on our pricing page run £6,000 to £20,000 per week by size. Crewed charters start at $25,000 per week.
Table of Contents
- What North Sound is, and why a boat suits it
- Where to stay in North Sound
- What to do in North Sound
- A sample three-night North Sound plan
- Rules that protect the sound and your wallet
- Our perspective: why we recommend a power cat for North Sound
- What a North Sound charter costs
- Ready to book a boat for North Sound?
- FAQ
- Sources
What North Sound is, and why a boat suits it
North Sound sits at the far eastern end of Virgin Gorda, the third largest of the British Virgin Islands. There is no big airport on the island. Most visitors reach it through Tortola’s airport and then by ferry, water taxi or their own boat, and some of the best spots have no road access at all.
That is the case for a yacht. Bitter End, Saba Rock, Leverick Bay and the quiet bays in between are all a short hop apart, and the water inside the sound is sheltered by reefs. You wake up somewhere different, or in the same place with a different view, without packing a bag. Power catamarans suit this well: they give you a steady, wide platform with no sails to manage, and fast, flat repositioning when the wind picks up. If you are weighing the boat type, our comparison of power catamarans and sailing catamarans for a BVI charter lays out the trade-offs.
Where to stay in North Sound
There are really four ways to do it. Many guests mix them: two nights aboard, one night ashore for a special dinner and a bed that does not move.
On your yacht, on a mooring
The two main mooring fields are at Bitter End Yacht Club and Leverick Bay. The BVI government’s guidance on reefs is blunt: anchoring on or too close to coral is illegal and offenders are fined. In the sound, using the established mooring fields is the simplest way to stay on the right side of that. Even on a mooring, keep an eye on depth and your swing room, because grounding is a real risk in reef-fringed water.
Which field should you pick?
- Bitter End: the most atmospheric. You are among sailboats, kiteboards and dinghies, with the resort’s restaurants, shops and watersports a short dinghy ride away. Good for active families and anyone who likes to be in the middle of things.
- Leverick Bay: livelier at night and better for provisioning, with a marina on the western side of the sound. A good first or last night of a charter.
- Saba Rock area: tiny and busy, ideal for a dinner-and-tarpon evening. Plan to dinghy across from your mooring rather than expect to stay in its immediate vicinity.
A popular question among charter guests is whether to moor at Leverick Bay for two nights and dinghy over to Saba and Bitter End, or move between them. If your itinerary is relaxed, move once. The sound is compact enough that either approach works, and a power cat covers the distance in minutes.
Leverick Bay Resort & Marina
The best-known all-rounder. Leverick Bay Resort & Marina calls itself a place with everything in one spot, and that fits: accommodation, a marina, dining and a beach. It is the easy, family-friendly choice if you want a bed ashore before or after your charter.
Saba Rock
A small islet just off Bitter End, now almost entirely taken up by a luxury resort and restaurant. It started out in the 1960s as the Pirates’ Pub and a diving club. If you want boutique rooms and a very short boat ride, this is the pick. It is also where visitors go to feed the resident tarpon.
Oil Nut Bay
The luxury end of the sound, a residential and resort community on the eastern tip of Virgin Gorda. Visitors arrive by boat or water taxi. Expect high-end villas and a private feel.
Villas
Villa rentals around North Sound typically run from about $300 to $2,000 per night, depending on the season, size and level of luxury. For a group of six or more, a crewed or bareboat catamaran can come out as a better value because you also get the transport.
Quick comparison
| Option | Best for | Feel | How you get around |
|---|---|---|---|
| Yacht on a mooring | Couples, families, groups who want flexibility | Private, mobile | Dinghy and the yacht itself |
| Leverick Bay Resort & Marina | Families, pre or post charter nights | Relaxed, social | On foot, short ferry or water taxi |
| Saba Rock | Couples, a special night | Boutique, compact | Boat or water taxi |
| Oil Nut Bay | Luxury seekers | Private, upscale | Boat or water taxi |
| Villa | Larger groups staying ashore | Private | Rental car or boat |
What to do in North Sound
Watersports at Bitter End
Bitter End Yacht Club is a family-owned outpost with a history of more than 50 years, and it is built around being on the water. Sailing, kiteboarding and snorkeling are the headline activities. You do not need to be a sailor: a morning on a small boat or a snorkel along the reef is plenty. Bring a dinghy, tie it up at the dock, and make a day of it.
Feed the tarpon at Saba Rock
The tarpon at Saba Rock are a fixture of an evening visit. Pair it with dinner at the resort. Kids and adults both tend to like it. Check opening hours and any feeding times with the resort on the day, because they can change.
Glass-bottom boat tour
If you want to see the reef without getting wet, Sea It Clear Glass Bottom Boat runs tours from North Sound. Each tour seats a maximum of 12 people, so book ahead if you are travelling as a larger group. It is a very good activity for grandparents or small children.
Eat and drink ashore
North Sound has a real dock-and-dine culture, with waterfront restaurants and beach bars that you reach by dinghy. For ideas on where to tie up and eat across the islands, see our guide to the best BVI restaurants to visit by yacht and BVI beach bars by yacht.
The Baths, from North Sound
The Baths, a field of giant granite boulders with sea-level caves and pools, is the island’s best-known sight. From North Sound it is a trip down the coast, so many skippers do it as a day run and come back. Two practical points:
- Go early. Arriving in the morning means fewer people on the trails and in the water.
- Check the flag. The BVI uses a safety flag system at its beaches, and boat operators are asked to follow it. A red flag means danger. Do not swim or use the mooring field when it is flying. Conditions can turn rough in winter swells, so if in doubt, skip it and try another day.
For mooring details and routing around Virgin Gorda, see our Virgin Gorda charter guide for The Baths and North Sound and the page on Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour.
Hidden bays
Beyond the main hubs, the quieter bays in the sound, such as Eustatia Sound, are where a yacht really earns its keep. They are not reachable by road. Go with a captain or a good chart, and watch the reefs.
A sample three-night North Sound plan
Night one, Leverick Bay. Arrive, pick up a mooring, provision, and have dinner ashore. Fun and easy, with the marina close.
Night two, Bitter End. Morning move across the sound. Spend the day on watersports and snorkeling, then dinghy to Saba Rock for the tarpon and dinner.
Night three, a quiet bay or a second Bitter End night. Slow day, reef snorkeling, a glass-bottom boat tour if you want it, then an early start for The Baths if the flag is clear.
If you are travelling with children, our family BVI itinerary and guide to BVI charters with kids pace the days around beaches and short hops. Norman Island is the usual next stop south, covered in our Norman Island guide. Most routes through the BVI run in a loop, and many sailors go counter-clockwise, so you often share the track with the same boats.
Rules that protect the sound and your wallet
- Moorings, not anchors, near coral. See the reef rules above. Fines apply.
- Fishing needs a licence. The government says recreational fishing requires registration and a fishing licence, and spear guns and scuba gear are prohibited on a fishing vessel. Fishing is not allowed in Marine Protected Areas. Unless you have sorted the paperwork, leave the rods stowed.
- Flags at The Baths. Covered above.
- Check conditions each morning. Winter swells change what is comfortable. Your charter briefing is the place to ask.
Our perspective: why we recommend a power cat for North Sound
We are a family-owned company, based on Tortola for 30 years, and we have been chartering in the BVI since 1996. North Sound is the area where guests most often tell us they wish they had stayed longer. It is easy to treat it as a quick stop between The Baths and Anegada. We would rather you gave it at least two nights.
Here is what we tell guests who ask us.
- Stay on the water for at least one night in the sound. Mornings in a reef-sheltered bay are the point of the trip. Most of the day’s activity is a dinghy ride from your mooring.
- Split the stay. One night at Leverick Bay for the social evening, one at Bitter End for the water. That gives you both moods of the sound.
- Do The Baths early, and respect the flag. We would rather you changed the plan than pushed the weather.
- Pick the boat for your group. A power catamaran gives families and groups lots of deck space and a stable ride, and our fleet is chosen and maintained with that in mind. Talk to us before booking and we will build the itinerary around how you want to travel, not around a template.
We plan these trips with guests directly, so you speak to people who know these moorings. That is the part of a charter that bigger operators often cannot match.
— alexia
What a North Sound charter costs
Prices below are as published on our site. Check the pages for the current numbers and what is included.
| Charter type | Published price per week |
|---|---|
| 3-cabin power catamaran, bareboat | £6,000 to £10,000 |
| 4-cabin power catamaran, bareboat | £8,000 to £14,000 |
| 5+ cabin luxury power catamaran, bareboat | £12,000 to £20,000 |
| Premium catamaran, crewed (4 to 6 guests) | $25,000 to $35,000 |
| Luxury catamaran, crewed (6 to 10 guests) | $35,000 to $70,000 |
| High-end luxury catamaran or motor yacht, crewed | $70,000 to $120,000 |
On a bareboat, you can add a captain: our charter costs page lists a standard captain at $250 per day and a training captain at $300 per day. A captain is a smart choice on a first visit, because a local skipper knows the reefs and mooring fields. Wi-Fi is a $250 one-off charge per charter, as listed on our what’s included page.
The ranges move with season and boat, so the cheapest end is not guaranteed on a given week. Compare against a villa: a week at the typical villa range quoted above comes to roughly $2,100 to $14,000 before you pay for transport between bays.
Ready to book a boat for North Sound?
If you want to stay aboard in North Sound, start with the bareboat charter pricing or, if you would like a captain, chef and crew handling everything, our luxury crewed charters. Tell us your dates, group size and how active you want to be, and we will suggest moorings and a boat. You can also download the e-brochure to see the fleet first.
FAQ
Where is the best place to stay in North Sound, Virgin Gorda?
For most visitors, a yacht on a mooring at Bitter End or Leverick Bay. It gives you access to every part of the sound. If you want to be ashore, Leverick Bay Resort & Marina suits families, Saba Rock suits couples, and Oil Nut Bay suits luxury travelers.
Can you anchor in North Sound?
Not on coral. Anchoring on or near reefs is illegal in the BVI and can bring a fine. Use the established mooring fields at Bitter End or Leverick Bay, and ask your charter briefer about sandy areas if you want to anchor elsewhere.
How long should you spend at The Baths?
Plan on a half-day. Arrive early, walk the trail through the boulders and caves, and swim or snorkel at the end. Check the flag status first, since a red flag means no swimming and no use of the mooring field.
What is there to do in North Sound besides the beach?
Watersports at Bitter End Yacht Club, tarpon feeding at Saba Rock, a glass-bottom boat reef tour, and dock-and-dine evenings at Leverick Bay. You can also add The Baths on a day run.
Do I need a captain to charter in North Sound?
Not necessarily, but it is worth considering on a first visit. A captain adds a local’s knowledge of reefs, mooring fields and weather. Our published rate for a standard captain is $250 per day.
Sources
- Island Hopper Guides: Discovering Virgin Gorda’s North Sound
- BVI Tourism: Bitter End Yacht Club
- BVI Tourism: Leverick Bay Resort & Marina
- BVI Tourism: Saba Rock
- BVI Tourism: Sea It Clear Glass Bottom Boat
- D. Berg Travel: Exploring the North Sound
- Maegan Kay Bakes: Sailing the BVI for 9 nights
Recommended
- Virgin Gorda Charter Guide | The Baths & North Sound
- Best BVI Restaurants to Visit by Yacht: Where to Dock and Dine
- Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour
- Best BVI Beach Bars to Visit by Yacht
Did You Know?
The BVI are only accessible by boat. Check out our charter yachts that can get you there. View Our Fleet
